Agent for fibers containing keratin, containing at least one specific amphiphilic cationic polymer and at least one additional film-forming cationic and/or stabilizing polymer

ABSTRACT

Agent for treating fibers containing keratin, particularly human hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier: (a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer having at least one structural unit of formulae (I) to (IV), wherein; R 1  and R 4  are independently hydrogen or a methyl group, X 1  and X 2  are independently oxygen or an NH group, A 1  and A 2  are independently an ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group, R 2 , R 3 , R 5  and R 6  are independently a (C 1  to C 4 )-alkyl group, R 7  is a C 8  to C 30 )-alkyl group and; (b) at least one film-forming cationic and/or stabilizing cationic polymer. The invention also relates to use of agents for temporarily styling hair and for haircare, particularly as an aerosol hairspray or mousse.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

The present application is a continuation of International PatentApplication No. PCT/EP2009/059350 filed 21 Jul. 2009, which is claimspriority to German Patent Application Nos. 10 2008 038 109.8 filed 18Aug. 2008 and 10 2008 059 479.2 filed 28 Nov. 2008, each of which areincorporated herein by reference.

The present invention relates to agents for treating hair containing acombination of at least one specific amphiphilic, cationic polymer withat least one film-forming cationic and/or setting polymer, use of theseagents for temporary shaping and/or care of keratin-containing fibers,and aerosol hair sprays/foams based on these agents.

Keratin-containing fibers include all animal hair (e.g., wool,horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or fabrics producedfrom them). However, keratinic fibers preferably concern human hair.

Today, a suitably looking hairstyle is generally regarded as anessential part of a well groomed appearance. Based on actual fashiontrends, time and again hairstyles are considered chic, which, for manytypes of hair, can only be formed or sustained over a longer period ofup to several days by the use of certain consolidating materials. Thus,hair treatments, which provide a permanent or temporary hairstyling,play an important role. Temporary styling intended to provide a goodhold, without compromising the healthy appearance of the hair, such as,for example the gloss, can be obtained for example by the use ofhairsprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair foams, setting lotions, etc.

Suitable compositions for temporary hairstyling usually containsynthetic polymers as the styling component. Preparations containing adissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied on hair by propellants orby a pumping mechanism. Hair gels and hair waxes, however, are notgenerally applied directly on the hair, but rather dispersed with a combor by hand.

An important property of an agent for temporary styling of keratinfibers, also referred to as styling agents, consists in giving thetreated fibers the strongest possible hold for the shape created. If thekeratinic fibers are human hair, then one also speaks of a stronghairstyle hold or high degree of hold of the styling agent. Styling holdcan be determined by the type and quantity of synthetic polymer used,but other components of the styling agent may also influence hold.

In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must fulfill awhole series of additional requirements. These requirements can bebroadly divided into hair properties, formulation properties (e.g.,properties of the foam, gel or aerosol spray), and properties concerningthe handling of the styling agent, with particular importance attachedto the hair properties. These include moisture resistance, lowstickiness and a balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a stylingagent should be applicable for as many types of hair as possible.

In an attempt to meet the various requirements, various syntheticpolymers have already been developed and are being used in stylingagents. These polymers can be divided into cationic, anionic, non-ionicand amphoteric film-forming and/or setting polymers. Ideally thesepolymers form a polymer film when applied to hair, imparting a stronghold to the hairstyle while also being sufficiently flexible so as tonot break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, film plaquesdevelop (i.e., residues that are shed with movement of the hair and givethe impression that the user of the respective styling agent hasdandruff).

The development of styling agents that have all the desired propertiesstill presents problems. This is particularly true for the combinationof strong hold and simple, uniform application onto thekeratin-containing fibers.

Accordingly, the present invention provides an agent for temporaryshaping and/or care of keratinic fibers that has a high degree of holdor high care action, and in particular has excellent handleabilityduring its application onto the keratin-containing fibers.

It has now been surprisingly found that this can be achieved by acombination of specific polymers. Furthermore, in the context of aspecific embodiment of the invention, it was possible, in addition tothese excellent properties, to provide compositions exempt fromturbidity. Freedom from turbidity is of particular interest with respectto aerosol compositions, as solid suspended particles can block thedischarge nozzle of the aerosol pack. Generally, for turbid and lowviscosity compositions there is the additional danger of sedimentationthat has a deleterious effect on storage stability of the composition.

Accordingly, a first subject matter of the present invention is an agentfor treating keratin-containing fibers, especially human hair,comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

-   (a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer having at least one    structural unit according to Formula (I), at least one structural    unit according to Formula (II), at least one structural unit    according to Formula (III), and at least one structural unit    according to Formula (IV),

-   -   wherein    -   R¹ and R⁴ are, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or        a methyl group,    -   X¹ and X² are, independently of one another, an oxygen atom or        an NH group,    -   A¹ and A² are, independently of one another, an ethane-1,2-diyl,        propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group,    -   R², R³, R⁵ and R⁶ are, independently of one another, a (C₁ to        C₄) alkyl group, and    -   R⁷ is a (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl group and

-   (b) at least one additional film-forming cationic and/or setting    cationic polymer.

Film-forming polymers refer to those polymers that, on drying, leave acontinuous film on the skin, hair or nails. These types of film-formerscan be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products such as make upmasks, make up, hair sets, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hairconditioners, shampoos or nail varnishes. Those polymers areparticularly preferred which are sufficiently soluble in alcohol orwater/alcohol mixtures, so that they are present in completely dissolvedform in the agents. Film-forming polymers can be of synthetic or ofnatural origin.

According to the invention, film-forming polymers further refer to thosepolymers that, when used in concentrations of 0.1 to 20 wt. % inaqueous, alcoholic or aqueous alcoholic solution, are able to separateout a transparent polymer film on the hair.

Setting polymers contribute to hold and/or to the creation of hairvolume and hair body of the whole hairstyle. These polymers are alsofilm-forming polymers and therefore are generally typical substances forstyling hair treatment compositions such as hair sets, hair foams, hairwaxes, hair sprays. Film formation can be in completely selected areasand bond only some fibers together.

The curl-retention test or the three point bending tests are frequentlyused as a test method for the setting action of a polymer.

In the above Formulae and all Formulae below, the symbol * signifies achemical bond that is a free valence of the corresponding structuralfragment.

To compensate for the positive charge on the polymer in the agent, allpossible physiologically acceptable anions can be used, such aschloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate,tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphateor p-toluene sulfonate, or triflate.

Exemplary (C₁ to C₄) alkyl groups are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl,butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, and tert-butyl.

Exemplary (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl groups are octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl),dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl(stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl), docosyl (behenyl).

Molecular weights of amphiphilic, cationic polymers according to theinvention are preferably from 10,000 g/mol to 50,000,000 g/mol,especially from 50,000 g/mol to 5,000,000 g/mol, particularly preferablyfrom 75,000 g/mol to 1,000,000 g/mol.

According to the invention, preferred agents contain amphiphilic,cationic polymers (a) in an amount of 0.1 wt. % to 20.0 wt. %,preferably 0.2 wt. % to 10.0 wt. %, more preferably 0.5 wt. % to 5.0 wt.%, based on total weight of the agent.

The properties of the agent have proven to be particularly advantageouswhen the agent is packaged as an aerosol spray, aerosol foam, pump sprayor pump foam. This preferred packaging form is described later indetail.

The following amphiphilic, cationic polymers (a) are preferably used inagents according to the invention when the amphiphilic, cationicpolymers (a) corresponding to the above Formulas (I) to (IV) fulfill oneor more of the following criteria:

-   -   R¹ and R⁴ are each a methyl group,    -   X¹ is an NH group,    -   X² is an NH group,    -   A¹ and A² are, independently of one another, ethane-1,2-diyl or        propane-1,3-diyl,    -   R², R³, R⁵ and R⁶ are, independently of one another, methyl or        ethyl (preferably methyl), and    -   R⁷ is a (C₁₀ to C₂₄) alkyl group, especially decyl (caprinyl),        dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl),        octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).

Preferably, the structural unit of Formula (III) is chosen from at leastone of the structural units of Formulae (III-1) to (III-8)

Moreover, it is particularly preferable to choose the structural unitaccording to Formula (III-7) and/or Formula (III-8) as the structuralunit of Formula (III). According to the invention, the structural unitof Formula (III-8) is a quite particularly preferred structural unit.

Furthermore, the structural unit of Formula (IV) is preferably chosenfrom at least one structural unit of Formulae (IV-1) to (IV-8)

wherein each R⁷ is a (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl group.

Structural units of Formula (IV-7) and/or of Formula (IV-8) are againparticularly preferred as the structural unit of Formula (IV), whereineach R⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl),tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl(arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl). According to the invention, thestructural unit of Formula (IV-8) represents a quite particularlypreferred structural unit of Formula (IV).

An amphiphilic, cationic polymer having at least one structural unit ofFormula (I), at least one structural unit of Formula (II), at least onestructural unit of Formula (III-8), and at least one structural unit ofFormula (IV-8) is quite particularly preferably present in the agentaccording to the invention.

wherein R⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl),tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl(arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).

A quite particularly preferred amphiphilic, cationic polymer is thecopolymer of N-vinyl pyrrolidone, N-vinyl caprolactam,N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamide and3-(methacryloylamino)propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name:Polyquaternium-69), marketed, for example, under the trade nameAquaStyle® 300 (28-32 wt. % active substance in an ethanol-watermixture, molecular weight 350 000) by the ISP company.

In addition, agents according to the invention further have at least onefilm-forming cationic and/or setting cationic polymer. These polymersdiffer from the amphiphilic, cationic polymers (a).

In this regard, it is again preferred that the agent have at least twoadditional film-forming cationic and/or setting cationic polymers ascomponent (b). These two additional film-forming cationic and/or settingcationic polymers differ from each another as well as from theamphiphilic, cationic polymers (a).

The additional film-forming cationic and/or setting cationic polymerspreferably has at least one structural unit having at least onepermanently cationized nitrogen atom.

“Permanently cationized nitrogen atoms” refers to those nitrogen atomsthat carry a positive charge and thereby form a quaternary ammoniumcompound. Quaternary ammonium compounds are mostly produced by reactingtertiary amines with alkylating agents, such as methyl chloride, benzylchloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, and ethylene oxide.Depending on the tertiary amine, the following groups are particularlywell known: alkylammonium compounds, alkenylammonium compounds,imidazolinium compounds and pyridinium compounds.

According to the invention, preferred agents contain film-forming,cationic and/or setting cationic polymers (b) in an amount of 0.1 wt. %to 20.0 wt. %, preferably 0.2 wt. % to 10.0 wt. %, and more preferably0.5 wt. % to 5.0 wt. %, based on total weight of the agent.

According to the invention, cationic film-forming and/or cationicsetting polymers can be chosen from cationic, quaternized cellulosederivatives.

Agents corresponding to this embodiment form turbid compositions.Turbidity can be seen with the naked eye. Moreover, agents of thisembodiment additionally have advantageous parameters with respect to thestrong degree of hold for the hairstyle or volume or for haircare.

In the context of this embodiment, those agents are suitable that have,in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

-   (a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer having at least one    structural unit of Formula (I), at least one structural unit of    Formula (II), at least one structural unit of Formula (III), and at    least one structural unit of Formula (IV),

-   -   wherein    -   R¹ and R⁴ are, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or        a methyl group,    -   X¹ and X² are, independently of one another, an oxygen atom or        an NH group,    -   A¹ and A² are, independently of one another, an ethane-1,2-diyl,        propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group,    -   R², R³, R⁵ and R⁶ are, independently of one another, a (C₁ to        C₄) alkyl group,    -   R⁷ is a (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl group, and

-   (b) at least one additional film-forming cationic and/or setting    cationic polymer chosen from cationic, quaternized cellulose    derivatives.

Accordingly, in the context of this embodiment, those particular agentsare suitable that have in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

-   (a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer having at least one    structural unit of Formula (I), at least one structural unit of    Formula (II), at least one structural unit of Formula (III-8), and    at least one structural unit of Formula (IV-8)

-   -   wherein R⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl        (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl        (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl), and

-   (b) at least one additional film-forming cationic and/or setting    cationic polymer chosen from cationic, quaternized cellulose    derivatives.

In general, those cationic, quaternized celluloses having more than onepermanent cationic charge in a side chain have proven to beadvantageous.

Among the cationic cellulose derivatives to be highlighted are thoseproduced from the reaction of hydroxyethyl cellulose with adimethyldiallylammonium reactant (especially dimethyldiallylammoniumchloride), optionally in the presence of further reactants. Among thesecationic celluloses, once again those cationic celluloses with the INCIname Polyquaternium-4 are particularly suitable, which, for example, aremarketed by the National Starch Company under the trade names Celquat® H100, Celquat® L 200.

Consequently, in the context of this embodiment, agents according to theinvention are suitable that have in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

-   (a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer having at least one    structural unit of Formula (I), at least one structural unit of    Formula (II), at least one structural unit of Formula (III-8), and    at least one structural unit of Formula (IV-8)

-   -   wherein R⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl        (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl        (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl), and

-   (b) at least one additional film-forming cationic and/or setting    cationic polymer chosen from cationic, quaternized cellulose    derivatives produced from the reaction of hydroxyethyl cellulose    with a dimethyldiallylammonium reactant (especially    dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), optionally in the presence of    further reactants.

It is again particularly preferred for the abovementioned preferredembodiments when agents according to the invention have at least oneadditional film-forming cationic and/or setting cationic polymerdifferent from the polymers defined under (a) and (b).

In the context of these abovementioned embodiments, the previously citedpreferred embodiments of amphiphilic, cationic polymer (a) are suitable(see above). Similarly, all previously mentioned preferred quantitativedata with respect to polymer components (a) and (b) of the agent arealso well suited mutatis mutandis for these embodiments.

In addition, such cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymershaving at least one structural unit of Formula (I), at least onestructural unit of Formula (V), and at least one structural unit ofFormula (VI) are suitable

-   -   wherein    -   R¹ and R⁴ are, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or        a methyl group,    -   A¹ and A² are, independently of one another, an ethane-1,2-diyl,        propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group,    -   R², R³, R⁵ and R⁶ are, independently of one another, a (C₁ to        C₄) alkyl group,    -   R⁷ is a (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl group.

To compensate for the positive charge of the monomer (VI), all possiblephysiologically acceptable anions can be used, such as chloride,bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate,tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphateor p-toluene sulfonate, or triflate.

Exemplary suitable compounds are

-   -   copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with        diethyl sulfate, with vinyl pyrrolidone having the INCI name        Polyquaternium-11, available under the trade names Gafquat® 440,        Gafquat® 734, Gafquat® 755 (each from ISP) and Luviquat PQ 11        PN(BASF SE),    -   copolymers of methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium        chloride with vinyl pyrrolidone and        dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide with the INCI name        Polyquaternium-55, commercially available under the trade names,        Styleze® W-10, Styleze® W-20 (ISP).

Agents corresponding to this embodiment form turbid compositions.Turbidity can be seen with the naked eye. Moreover, agents of thisembodiment additionally have acceptable parameters regarding the strongdegree of hold for the hairstyle or the volume or for haircare.

Accordingly, those agents are suitable that have, in a cosmeticallyacceptable carrier

-   (a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer having at least one    structural unit of Formula (I), at least one structural unit of    Formula (II), at least one structural unit of Formula (III-8), and    at least one structural unit of Formula (IV),

-   -   wherein    -   R¹ and R⁴ are, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or        a methyl group,    -   X¹ and X² are, independently of one another, an oxygen atom or        an NH group,    -   A¹ and A² are, independently of one another, an ethane-1,2-diyl,        propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group,    -   R², R³, R⁵ and R⁶ are, independently of one another, a (C₁ to        C₄) alkyl group, and    -   R⁷ is a (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl group, and

-   (b) at least one additional cationic film-forming and/or cationic    setting polymer having at least one structural unit of Formula (I),    at least one structural unit of Formula (V), and at least one    structural unit of Formula (VI)

-   -   wherein    -   R¹ and R⁴ are, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or        a methyl group,    -   A¹ and A² are, independently of one another, an ethane-1,2-diyl,        propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group,    -   R², R³, R⁵ and R⁶ are, independently of one another, a (C₁ to        C₄) alkyl group,    -   R⁷ is a (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl group.

In addition, those agents are suitable that have, in a cosmeticallyacceptable carrier

-   (a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer having at least one    structural unit of Formula (I), at least one structural unit of    Formula (II), at least one structural unit of Formula (III-8), and    at least one structural unit of Formula (IV-8)

-   -   wherein R⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl        (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl        (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl), and

-   (b) at least one additional cationic film-forming and/or cationic    setting polymer having at least one structural unit of Formula (I),    at least one structural unit of Formula (V), and at least one    structural unit of Formula (VI)

-   -   wherein    -   R¹ and R⁴ are, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or        a methyl group,    -   A¹ and A² are, independently of one another, an ethane-1,2-diyl,        propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group,    -   R², R³, R⁵ and R⁶ are, independently of one another, a (C₁ to        C₄) alkyl group, and    -   R⁷ is a (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl group.

To compensate for the positive charge of monomer (VI), the aboverelevant statement applies.

It is again particularly preferred for the abovementioned preferredembodiments when the agent according to the invention has at least oneadditional film-forming cationic and/or setting cationic polymerdifferent from the polymers defined under (a) and (b).

According to this embodiment, the previously cited preferred embodimentsof amphiphilic, cationic polymer (a) are preferred (see above).Similarly, all previously mentioned quantitative data regarding polymercomponents (a) and (b) of the agent are also preferred mutatis mutandisfor these embodiments.

In the context of the invention, additionally, those cationicfilm-forming and/or cationic setting copolymers (b) having at least onestructural element of Formula (M1) serve as a particularly preferredusable film-forming and/or setting polymers chosen from cationicpolymers having at least one structural unit possessing a permanentlycationized nitrogen atom

wherein R″ is a (C₁ to C₄) alkyl group, especially a methyl group, andadditionally having another cationic and/or non-ionic structuralelement.

Accordingly, in the context of the present invention, those agents areparticularly preferred that have, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

-   (a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer having at least one    structural unit of Formula (I), at least one structural unit of    Formula (II), at least one structural unit of Formula (III), and at    least one structural unit of Formula (IV),

-   -   wherein    -   R¹ and R⁴ are, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or        a methyl group,    -   X¹ and X² are, independently of one another, an oxygen atom or        an NH group,    -   A¹ and A² are, independently of one another, an ethane-1,2-diyl,        propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group,    -   R², R³, R⁵ and R⁶ are, independently of one another, a (C₁ to        C₄) alkyl group,    -   R⁷ is a (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl group, and

-   (b) at least one additional cationic film-forming and/or cationic    setting polymer having at least one structural element of Formula    (M1) as the at least one structural unit having a permanently    cationized nitrogen atom

-   -   wherein    -   R″ is a (C₁ to C₄) alkyl group, especially a methyl group, and    -   additionally has another cationic and/or non-ionic structural        element.

It is again particularly preferred for the abovementioned preferredembodiments when the agent has at least one additional film-formingcationic and/or setting cationic polymer different from polymers (a) and(b).

Agents according to this embodiment form transparent (i.e., non-turbid)compositions. Any turbidity cannot be seen with the naked eye. Moreover,the agents also have to an excellent degree the advantageous parametersregarding the strong degree of hold for the hairstyle or volume or forhaircare.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (b), allpossible physiologically acceptable anions can be used, such aschloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate,tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphateor p-toluene sulfonate, or triflate.

According to this embodiment, those agents are particularly preferredthat have, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

-   (a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer having at least one    structural unit of Formula (I), at least one structural unit of    Formula (II), at least one structural unit of Formula (III-8), and    at least one structural unit of Formula (IV-8)

-   -   wherein R⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl        (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl        (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl), and

-   (b) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting    polymer having at least one structural element of Formula (M1)

-   -   wherein R″ is a (C₁ to C₄) alkyl group, especially a methyl        group, and    -   additionally has another cationic and/or non-ionic structural        element.

It is again particularly preferred for the abovementioned preferredembodiments when the agent has at least one additional film-formingcationic and/or setting cationic polymer different from polymers definedunder (a) and (b).

In particular, the previously mentioned polymer with the INCI namePolyquaternium 69 is particularly preferred as the amphiphilic cationicpolymer (a) (see above).

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (b), theabove relevant statement applies.

It is again inventively preferred when, in addition to amphiphiliccationic polymer (a), the agent contains at least one copolymer (b1)containing, in addition to a structural element of Formula (M1), astructural element of Formula (I) as the cationic film-forming and/orcationic setting polymer (b)

wherein R″ is a (C₁ to C₄) alkyl group, particularly a methyl group.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of copolymer (b1), allpossible physiologically acceptable anions can be used, such aschloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate,tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphateor p-toluene sulfonate, or triflate.

Quite particularly preferred cationic film-forming and/or cationicsetting polymers as copolymers (b1) have 1 to 30 mol %, preferably 15 to25 mol % and particularly 20 mol % of structural units according toFormula (M1), and 70 to 90 mol %, preferably 75 to 85 mol % andparticularly 80 mol % of structural units according to Formula (I).

Accordingly, it is particularly preferred when copolymers (b1) have, inaddition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of the citedstructural units according to Formula (M1) and (I) into the copolymer, amaximum of 5 wt. %, preferably a maximum of 1 wt. % of polymer unitsthat trace back to the incorporation of other monomers. Copolymers (b1)are preferably exclusively formed from structural units of Formula (M1)wherein R″=methyl and (I), and can be described by the general Formula(Poly1)

wherein indices m and p vary according to the molecular mass of thepolymer and are not intended to mean to portray block copolymers. Infact, structural units of Formula (M1) and Formula (I) can bestatistically distributed in the molecule.

If a chloride ion is used to compensate for the positive charge of thepolymer of Formula (Poly1), then these N-methyl vinylimidazole/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are named according to INCI nomenclature asPolyquaternium-16 and are available from, for example, BASF under thetrade names Luviquat® Style, Luviquat® FC 370, Luviquat® FC 550,Luviquat® FC 905 and Luviquat® HM 552. If a methosulfate ion is used tocompensate for the positive charge of the polymer of Formula (Poly1),then these N-methyl vinylimidazole/vinyl pyrrolidone copolymers arenamed according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44 and areavailable from for example BASF under the trade name Luviquat®UltraCare.

Particularly preferred inventive agents contain a copolymer (b1),especially of Formula (Poly1), having molecular masses within a definedrange. Here, preferred agents have a molecular mass of copolymer (b1)from 50 to 400 kDa, preferably from 100 to 300 kDa, more preferably from150 to 250 kDa, and particularly from 190 to 210 kDa.

In addition to copolymer(s) b1 or instead of it or them, the agents canalso contain copolymers (b2) having as additional structural unitsstructural units of Formula (II)

Further particularly preferred agents according to the invention arethose that have as the cationic film-forming and/or cationic settingpolymer (b) at least one copolymer (b2) that has at least one structuralunit according to Formula (M1-a), at least one structural unit accordingto Formula (I), and at least one structural unit according to Formula(II)

Also, it is particularly preferred when copolymers (b2) have, inaddition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of the citedstructural units according to Formula (M1-a), (I) and (II) into thecopolymer, a maximum of 5 wt. %, preferably a maximum of 1 wt. % ofpolymer units that trace back to the incorporation of other monomers.Copolymers (b2) are preferably exclusively formed from structural unitsof Formula (M1-a), (I) and (II) can be described by the general Formula(Poly2)

wherein indices m, n and p vary according to the molecular mass of thepolymer and are not intended to mean to portray block copolymers. Infact, structural units of the cited Formulas can be statisticallydistributed in the molecule.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (b2), allpossible physiologically acceptable anions can be used, such aschloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate,tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphateor p-toluene sulfonate, or triflate.

If a methosulfate ion is used to compensate the positive charge of thepolymer of Formula (Poly2), then these N-methyl vinylimidazole/vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl caprolactam copolymers are named according to INCInomenclature as Polyquaternium-46 and are available from, for example,BASF under the trade name Luviquat® Hold.

Quite particularly preferred copolymers (b2) contain 1 to 20 mol %,preferably 5 to 15 mol % and particularly 10 mol % of structural unitsaccording to Formula (M1-a), 30 to 50 mol %, preferably 35 to 45 mol %and particularly 40 mol % of structural units according to Formula (I),and 40 to 60 mol %, preferably 45 to 55 mol % and particularly 60 mol %of structural units according to Formula (II).

Particularly preferred inventive agents contain a copolymer (b2) havingmolecular masses within a defined range. Here, agents wherein themolecular mass of copolymer (b2) is from 100 to 1000 kDa, preferablyfrom 250 to 900 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 850 kDa andparticularly from 650 to 710 kDa are preferred.

In addition to copolymer(s) (b1) and/or (b2) or in its or their place,agents according to the invention can also include copolymers (b3) asthe film-forming cationic and/or setting cationic polymer (b) having asstructural units structural units of Formulas (M1-a) and (I), as well asstructural units from the group of vinyl imidazole units and furtherstructural units from the group of acrylamide and/or methacrylamideunits.

Further particularly preferred agents contain as the cationicfilm-forming and/or cationic setting polymer (b) at least one copolymer(b3) having at least one structural unit according to Formula (M1-a), atleast one structural unit according to Formula (I), at least onestructural unit according to Formula (VI), and at least one structuralunit according to Formula (VII)

Also, it is particularly preferred when copolymers (b3) contain, inaddition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of the citedstructural units according to Formula (M1-a), (I), (VI) and (VII) intothe copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt. %, preferably a maximum of 1 wt. % ofpolymer units that trace back to the incorporation of other monomers.Copolymers (b3) are preferably exclusively formed from structural unitsof Formula (M1-a), (I), (VI) and (VII) and can be described by thegeneral Formula (Poly3)

wherein indices m, n, o and p vary according to the molecular mass ofthe polymer and are not intended to mean to portray block copolymers. Infact, structural units of Formula (M1-a), (I), (VI) and (VII) can bestatistically distributed in the molecule.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (b2), allpossible physiologically acceptable anions can be used, such aschloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate,tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphateor p-toluene sulfonate, or triflate.

If a methosulfate ion is used to compensate the positive charge of thepolymer of Formula (Poly3), then these N-methyl vinylimidazole/vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl imidazole/methacrylamide copolymers are namedaccording to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-68 and are availablefrom, for example, BASF under the trade name Luviquat® Supreme.

Quite particularly preferred copolymers (b3) contain 1 to 12 mol %,preferably 3 to 9 mol %, and particularly 6 mol % of structural unitsaccording to Formula (M1-a), 45 to 65 mol %, preferably 50 to 60 mol %,and particularly 55 mol % of structural units according to Formula (I),1 to 20 mol %, preferably 5 to 15 mol %, and particularly 10 mol % ofstructural units according to Formula (VI), and 20 to 40 mol %,preferably 25 to 35 mol %, and particularly 29 mol % of structural unitsaccording to Formula (VII).

Particularly preferred inventive agents contain a copolymer (b3) havingmolecular masses within a defined range. Here, inventive agents arepreferred wherein the molecular mass of copolymer (b3) is from 100 to500 kDa, preferably from 150 to 400 kDa, more preferably from 250 to 350kDa, and particularly from 290 to 310 kDa.

Preferred additional film-forming cationic and/or setting polymerschosen from cationic polymers (b) having at least one structural elementof the above Formula (M1) are: vinylpyrrolidone/1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium chloride copolymers (such asthat with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 sold under the trade namesLuviquat® Style, Luviquat® FC 370, Luviquat® FC 550, Luviquat® FC 905and Luviquat® HM 552 (BASF SE)), vinylpyrrolidone/1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium methylsulfate copolymers(such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 soldunder the trade name Luviquat® Care (BASF SE)), vinyl pyrrolidone/vinylcaprolactam/1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium terpolymer (such as forexample that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-46 sold under the tradenames Luviquat® Care or Luviquat® Hold (BASF SE)), vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamide/vinylimidazole/1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium methyl sulfate copolymer (suchas for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-68 sold under thetrade name Luviquat® Supreme (BASF SE)), as well as mixtures of thesepolymers.

In the case where the agent has, in addition to amphiphilic, cationicpolymer (a), two different cationic film-forming and/or cationic settingpolymers (b), then the following embodiments have proven particularlysuitable.

In a preferred embodiment, agents contain, in a cosmetically acceptablecarrier

-   (a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer having at least one    structural unit of Formula (I), at least one structural unit of    Formula (II), at least one structural unit of Formula (III), and at    least one structural unit of Formula (IV),

-   -   wherein    -   R¹ and R⁴ are, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or        a methyl group,    -   X¹ and X² are, independently of one another, an oxygen atom or        an NH group,    -   A¹ and A² are, independently of one another, an ethane-1,2-diyl,        propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group,    -   R², R³, R⁵ and R⁶ are, independently of one another, a (C₁ to        C₄) alkyl group, and    -   R⁷ is a (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl group, and

-   (bI) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting    polymer having at least one structural element of Formula (M1)

-   -   wherein R″ is a (C₁ to C₄) alkyl group, especially methyl, and    -   additionally has another cationic and/or non-ionic structural        element, and

-   (bII) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting    polymer having at least one structural unit of Formula (I), at least    one structural unit of Formula (V), and at least one structural unit    of Formula (VI)

-   -   wherein    -   R¹ and R⁴ are, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or        a methyl group,    -   A¹ and A² are, independently of one another, an ethane-1,2-diyl,        propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group,    -   R², R³, R⁵ and R⁶ are, independently of one another, a (C₁ to        C₄) alkyl group, and    -   R⁷ is a (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl group.

In a preferred embodiment, agents contain, in a cosmetically acceptablecarrier

-   (a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer having at least one    structural unit of Formula (I), at least one structural unit of    Formula (II), at least one structural unit of Formula (III-8), and    at least one structural unit of Formula (IV-8)

-   -   wherein R⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl        (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl        (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl), and

-   (bI) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting    polymer having at least one structural element of Formula (M1) and    at least one structural element of Formula (I)

-   -   wherein R″ is a (C₁ to C₄) alkyl group, particularly methyl, and

-   (bII) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting    polymer having at least one structural unit of Formula (I), at least    one structural unit of Formula (V), and at least one structural unit    of Formula (VI)

-   -   wherein R⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl        (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl        (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).

In this regard, quite particularly preferred agents include (polymersdefined by the relevant INCI name) Polyquaternium-69, (b1)Polyquaternium-16, (b-11) Polyquaternium-55.

In the context of this embodiment, the previously cited preferredembodiments of the amphiphilic, cationic polymer (a) are preferred (seeabove). Similarly, all the previously mentioned quantitative dataregarding polymer components (a) and (bI) of the agent are alsopreferred mutatis mutandis for these embodiments.

The preferred embodiments described above again allow the followingparticularly preferred embodiment to be made which provides particularlypreferred technical effects for achieving the technical object of theinvention.

Accordingly, in the context of the present invention, those agents areparticularly preferred that have in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

-   (a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer having at least one    structural unit of Formula (I), at least one structural unit of    Formula (II), at least one structural unit of Formula (III), and at    least one structural unit of Formula (IV),

-   -   wherein    -   R¹ and R⁴ are, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or        a methyl group,    -   X¹ and X² are, independently of one another, an oxygen atom or        an NH group,    -   A¹ and A² are, independently of one another, an ethane-1,2-diyl,        propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group,    -   R², R³, R⁵ and R⁶ are, independently of one another, a (C₁ to        C₄) alkyl group, and    -   R⁷ is a (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl group, and

-   (bI) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting    polymer chosen from a polymer (b1) or (b2) or (b3)—    -   (b1) cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives,    -   (b2) polymers having at least one structural unit of Formula        (I), at least one structural unit of Formula (V), and at least        one structural unit of Formula (VI)

-   -   -   in which        -   R¹ and R⁴ are, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom            or a methyl group,        -   A¹ and A² are, independently of one another, an            ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group,        -   R², R³, R⁵ and R⁶ are, independently of one another, a (C₁            to C₄) alkyl group, and        -   R⁷ is a (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl group, or

    -   (b3) polymers having at least one structural element of Formula        (M1)

-   -   -   wherein R″ is a (C₁ to C₄) alkyl group, especially a methyl            group, and        -   additionally at least a further cationic and/or non-ionic            structural element,

-   (bII) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting    polymer that is different from (a) and (bI) and is chosen from at    least one polymer of    -   cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives    -   polymers having at least one structural unit of Formula (I), at        least one structural unit of Formula (V), and at least one        structural unit of Formula (VI)

-   -   wherein    -   R¹ and R⁴ are, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or        a methyl group,    -   A1 and A2 are, independently of one another, an ethane-1,2-diyl,        propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group,    -   R², R³, R⁵ and R⁶ are, independently of one another, a (C₁ to        C₄) alkyl group, and    -   R⁷ is a (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl group,    -   polymers having at least one structural element of Formula (M1)

-   -   in which R″ is a (C₁ to C₄) alkyl group, especially a methyl        group, and    -   additionally having another cationic and/or non-ionic structural        element.

Preferably, the polymers (bI) are incorporated in the agent in an amountof 0.1 wt. % to 15 wt. %, more preferably 0.25 wt. % to 5.0 wt. %, basedon total weight of the agent.

Preferably, the polymers (bII) are incorporated in the agent accordingto the invention in an amount of 0.1 wt. % to 15 wt. %, more preferably0.1 wt. % to 10.0 wt. %, quite particularly preferably 0.25 wt. % to 5.0wt. %, based on total weight of the agent.

The following agents are suitable for achieving the technical objecthaving, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

-   (a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer having at least one    structural unit of Formula (I), at least one structural unit of    Formula (II), at least one structural unit of Formula (III), and at    least one structural unit of Formula (IV),

-   -   wherein    -   R¹ and R⁴ are, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or        a methyl group,    -   X¹ and X² are, independently of one another, an oxygen atom or        an NH group,    -   A¹ and A² are, independently of one another, an ethane-1,2-diyl,        propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group,    -   R², R³, R⁵ and R⁶ are, independently of one another, a (C₁ to        C₄) alkyl group,    -   R⁷ is a (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl group, and

-   (bI) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting    polymer chosen from at least one cationic, quaternized cellulose    derivative, and

-   (bII) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting    polymer different from (a) and (b) and is chosen from at least one    polymer of the group of polymers having at least one structural unit    of Formula (I), at least one structural unit of Formula (V), and at    least one structural unit of Formula (VI)

-   -   wherein    -   R¹ and R⁴ are, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or        a methyl group,    -   A¹ and A² are, independently of one another, an ethane-1,2-diyl,        propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group,    -   R², R³, R⁵ and R⁶ are, independently of one another, a (C₁ to        C₄) alkyl group,    -   R⁷ is a (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl group,    -   polymers having at least one structural element of Formula (M1)

-   -   wherein R″ is a (C₁ to C₄) alkyl group, especially a methyl        group, and    -   additionally having another cationic and/or non-ionic structural        element.

In this regard, those agents are preferably suitable that have, in an acosmetically acceptable carrier

-   (a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer having at least one    structural unit of Formula (I), at least one structural unit of    Formula (II), at least one structural unit of Formula (III-8), and    at least one structural unit of Formula (IV-8),

wherein R⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl),tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl(arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl), and

-   (bI) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting    polymer chosen from at least one cationic, quaternized cellulose    derivative (especially Polyquaternium-4), and-   (bII) at least one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting    polymer different from (a) and (b) and is chosen from at least one    polymer of the group of polymers having at least one structural unit    of Formula (I), at least one structural unit of Formula (V), and at    least one structural unit of Formula (VI)

-   -   wherein    -   R¹ and R⁴ are, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or        a methyl group,    -   A¹ and A² are, independently of one another, an ethane-1,2-diyl,        propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group,    -   R², R³, R⁵ and R⁶ are, independently of one another, a (C₁ to        C₄) alkyl group,    -   R⁷ is a (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl group.

In the context of this embodiment, the previously cited preferredembodiments of the amphiphilic, cationic polymer (a) are preferred (seeabove).

The following preferred agents are quite particularly preferablysuitable which have in a cosmetic carrier at least one of the followingpolymer combinations (defined by the relevant INCI name):

(a) Polyquaternium-69 (bI) Polyquaternium-4 (bII) Polyquaternium-55,

(b) Polyquaternium-69 (bI) Polyquaternium-4 (bII) Polyquaternium-16

Similarly, all previously mentioned quantitative data regarding polymercomponents (a) and (bI) and (bII) of the agent are also preferredmutatis mutandis for these embodiments.

In addition to the added additional film-forming cationic and/or settingpolymer chosen from cationic polymers having at least one structuralunit possessing a permanently cationized nitrogen atom, the agents canhave at least one further film-forming and/or setting polymer differentfrom polymers (a) and (b).

In order to intensify the effect according to the invention, the agentspreferably additionally have at least one surfactant, with non-ionic,anionic, cationic, and ampholytic surfactants being suitable. The groupof ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionicsurfactants and ampholytes. According to the invention, the surfactantscan already have an emulsifying action.

The agent preferably contains additional surfactants in an amount of0.01 wt. % to 5 wt. %, more preferably 0.05 wt. % to 0.5 wt. %, based ontotal weight of the agent.

It has proved particularly preferable when agents according to theinvention have at least one non-ionic surfactant.

Non-ionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, apolyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol ether groupsand polyglycol ether groups as the hydrophilic group.

Exemplary compounds of this type are

-   -   addition products of 2 to 100 moles ethylene oxide and/or 1 to 5        moles propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols        containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing 8 to        30 carbon atoms and to alkyl phenols containing 8 to 15 carbon        atoms in the alkyl group,    -   methyl or C₂-C₆ alkyl group end blocked addition products of 2        to 50 moles ethylene oxide and/or 1 to 5 moles propylene oxide        to linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms,        to fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkyl phenols        with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as, for        example, the commercially available types Dehydrol® LS,        Dehydrol® LT (Cognis),    -   C₁₂-C₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1        to 30 moles ethylene oxide to glycerin,    -   addition products of 5 to 60 moles ethylene oxide on castor oil        and hydrogenated castor oil,    -   polyol esters of fatty acids, such as, for example, the        commercial product Hydagen® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types        (Cognis),    -   alkoxylated triglycerides,    -   alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I)        R¹CO—(OCH₂CHR²)_(W)OR³  (E4-I)    -   wherein R¹CO is a linear or branched, saturated and/or        unsaturated acyl group containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R² is        hydrogen or methyl, R³ is linear or branched alkyl groups        containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and w is a number from 1 to 20,    -   amine oxides,    -   mixed hydroxy ethers such as are described in DE-OS1 973 8866,    -   sorbitol esters of fatty acids and addition products of ethylene        oxide to sorbitol esters of fatty acids such as e.g. the        polysorbates,    -   sugar esters of fatty acids and addition products of ethylene        oxide to sugar esters of fatty acids,    -   addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides        and fatty amines,    -   sugar surfactants of the type alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides        according to Formula (E4-II),        R⁴O—[G]_(P)  (E4-II)    -   wherein R⁴ is an alkyl or alkenyl group containing 4 to 22        carbon atoms, G is a sugar group containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms,        and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained according        to the appropriate methods of preparative organic chemistry.

The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can derive from aldoses or ketosescontaining 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose. Preferred alkyland/or alkenyl oligoglycosides are accordingly alkyl and/or alkenyloligoglucosides The index value p in the general Formula (E4-II)represents the degree of oligomerization (DP) (i.e., the distribution ofmono and oligoglycosides), and is a number from 1 to 10. Whereas in agiven compound p must always be a whole number, and here above all canassume the values p=1 to 6, the value p for a specific alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined calculated quantity thatmostly represents a fractional number. Preferably, alkyl and/or alkenyloligoglycosides are employed with an average degree of oligomerization pof 1.1 to 3.0. From an industrial point of view, such alkyl and/oralkenyl oligoglycosides are preferred with degrees of oligomerizationless than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4.

Alkylene oxide addition products to saturated, linear fatty alcohols andfatty acids, each with 2 to 100 moles ethylene oxide per mole fattyalcohol or fatty acid, are particularly preferred non-ionic surfactants.Similarly, preparations with excellent properties are obtained when theycontain C₁₂-C₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1to 30 moles ethylene oxide to glycerin and/or addition products of 5 to60 moles ethylene oxide to castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil as thenon-ionic surfactants.

For surfactants represented by the addition products of ethylene oxideand/or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols or derivatives of theseaddition products, both products with a “normal” homologue distributionas well as those with a narrow homologue distribution can be used. Theterm “normal” homologue distribution refers to mixtures of homologuesobtained from the reaction of fatty alcohols and alkylene oxide usingalkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates ascatalysts. Narrow homologue distributions are obtained if, for example,hydrotalcite, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids,alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used ascatalysts. Use of products with a narrow homologue distribution can bepreferred.

Agents according to the invention preferably have as the surfactant atleast one addition product of 15 to 100 moles ethylene oxide, especially15 to 50 moles ethylene oxide on a linear or branched (especiallylinear) fatty alcohol containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms. These are quiteparticularly preferably—Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-25 orCeteareth-50—marketed as Eumulgin® CS 15 (COGNIS), Cremophor A25 (BASFSE) or Eumulgin® CS 50 (COGNIS).

Suitable anionic surfactants include all anionic surface-activematerials suitable for use on the human body. They have a watersolubilising anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate orphosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group containing about 8 to 30carbon atoms. Additionally, the molecule can have glycol or polyglycolether groups, ester, ether and amide groups as well as hydroxyl groups.Exemplary suitable anionic surfactants are, each in the form of thesodium, potassium and ammonium, as well as the mono, di andtrialkanolammonium salts containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanolgroup.

Examples of suitable anionic surfactants, each in the form of thesodium, potassium and ammonium salts as well as the mono-, di- andtrialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,are

-   -   linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms        (soaps),    -   ether carboxylic acids of the formula        R—O—(CH₂CH₂O)_(x)—CH₂—COOH, wherein R is a linear alkyl group        containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x=0 or 1 to 16,    -   acyl sarcosides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,    -   acyl taurides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,    -   acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,    -   mono- and dialkyl esters of sulfosuccinic acid with 8 to 24        carbon atoms in the alkyl group and mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl        esters of sulfosuccinic acid with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the        alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethylene groups,    -   linear alkane sulfonates containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms,    -   linear alpha-olefin sulfonates containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms,    -   alpha-sulfo fatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids containing 8        to 30 carbon atoms,    -   alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the        Formula R—O(CH₂—CH₂O)_(x)—OSO₃H, wherein R is preferably a        linear alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x=0 or 1        to 12,    -   mixtures of surface active hydroxyl sulfonates, sulfated        hydroxyalkyl polyethylene glycol ethers and/or hydroxyalkylene        propylene glycol ethers,    -   sulfonated unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and        1 to 6 double bonds,    -   esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which        represent the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of        ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide on fatty alcohols        containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,    -   alkyl and/or alkenyl ether phosphates of Formula (E1-I),

-   -   wherein R¹ preferably is an aliphatic hydrocarbon group        containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R² is hydrogen, a        (CH²CH²O)_(n)R¹ group or X, n is a number from 1 to 10 and X is        hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, with        R³ to R⁶, independently of each other standing for a C₁ to C₄        hydrocarbon group,    -   sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula        (E1-II)        R⁷CO(AlkO)_(n)SO₃M  (E1-11)    -   wherein R⁷CO— is a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated        and/or unsaturated acyl group with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk is        CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ and/or CH₂CHCH₃, n is a number from 0.5 to 5,        and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS197 36 906,    -   monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of        Formula (E1-III)

-   -   wherein R⁸CO is a linear or branched acyl group containing 6 to        22 carbon atoms, the sum of x, y and z is 0 or a number from 1        to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali metal or alkaline        earth metal. In the context of the invention, typical examples        of suitable monoglyceride (ether) sulfates are the reaction        products of lauric acid monoglyceride, cocoa fatty acid        monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid        monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid        monoglyceride as well as their ethylene oxide adducts with        sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their        sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of Formula        (E1-III) are employed, wherein R⁸CO is a linear acyl group        containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms,    -   amido ether carboxylic acids,    -   condensation products of C₈-C₃₀ fatty alcohols with protein        hydrolyzates and/or amino acids and their derivatives, known to        one skilled in the art as albumin fatty acid condensates, such        as the Lamepon® types, Gluadin® types, Hostapon® KCG or the        Amisoft® types.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ethersulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkylgroup and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinicacid mono and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group andsulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 C atomsin the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethylene groups, monoglycerindisulfates, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates as well as albumin fattyacid condensates.

According to the invention, cationic surfactants of quaternary ammoniumcompounds, esterquats, and amido amines can likewise be used. Preferredquaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chloridesand bromides, such as alkyl-trimethylammonium chlorides,dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides.The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18carbon atoms, such as cetyltrimethylammonium chloride,stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride,lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chlorideand tricetylmethylammonium chloride. Further preferred cationicsurfactants are those imidazolium compounds known under the INCI namesQuaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.

Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds having atleast one quaternary ammonium group and at least one —COO or —SO₃ ⁽⁻⁾group in the molecule. Particularly preferred suitable zwitterionicsurfactants are betaines such the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example, cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate,N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example,coco-acylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines, each with 8 to 18carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group as well ascocoacyl-aminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferredzwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known underthe INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytes include such surface-active compounds that, apart from aC₈₋₂₄ alkyl or acyl group, have at least one free amino group and atleast one —COOH or —SO₃H group in the molecule, and are able to forminternal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines,N-alkyl propionic acids, N-alkylamino butyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines,N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylamino propionic acids andalkylamino acetic acids, each with about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in thealkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylamino propionate and C₁₂-C₁₈ acylsarcosine.

Agents according to the invention contain the ingredients or activesubstances in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic oraqueous alcoholic media containing preferably at least 10 wt. % water,based on total composition. In particular, lower alcohols containing 1to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, which are usuallyused for cosmetic purposes, can be used as alcohols. It is inventivelypreferred to incorporate at least one (C₁ to C₄) monoalkyl alcohol inthe agents, particularly in an amount of 1 to 50 wt. %, especially 5 to30 wt. %. Again, this is particularly preferred when manufacturing pumpfoams or aerosol foams.

Organic solvents or a mixture of solvents with a boiling point of lessthan 400° C. can be uase as additional co-solvents in an amount of 0.1to 15 wt. %, preferably 1 to 10 wt. %, based on total weight of theagent. Particularly suitable additional co-solvents are unbranched orbranched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane, and cyclichydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane. Additional,particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerin, ethyleneglycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30 wt. %, based ontotal weight of the agent.

In particular, the addition of glycerin and/or propylene glycol and/orpolyethylene glycol and/or polypropylene glycol increases theflexibility of the polymer film formed when the agent is used.Consequently, if a more flexible hold is desired, then the agentspreferably contain 0.01 to 30 wt. % glycerin and/or propylene glycoland/or polyethylene glycol and/or polypropylene glycol, based on totalweight of the agent.

The agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 11. The pH range is particularlypreferably from 2 to 8. In the context of this publication, pH datarefer to the pH at 25° C. unless otherwise stated.

Agents according to the invention can also include auxiliaries andadditives typically used in styling agents.

In particular, care products may be mentioned as suitable auxiliariesand additives.

Silicone oil and/or silicone gum, for example, can be used as the caresubstance.

Suitable silicone oils or gums according to the invention are especiallydialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes, such as dimethylpolysiloxane andmethylphenylpolysiloxane, as well as their alkoxylated, quaternized oralso anionic derivatives. Cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, theiralkoxylated and/or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxanesand polyphenylalkylsiloxanes are preferred.

Silicone oils afford a variety of effects. Thus, for example, theysimultaneously influence dry and wet combability, feel of the dry andwet hair, as well as gloss. The term “silicone oils” refers toorganosilicon compounds having a plurality of structures. In the firstinstance they include the Dimethiconols. The following commercialproducts are exemplary of such products: Botanisil NU-150M(Botanigenics), Dow Corning 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, DowCorning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), UnisilSF-R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor ChemicalCompany), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzene sulfonate (A & EConnock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), B C Dimethiconol Emulsion 95(Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all from ChemsilSilicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, DowCorning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546Silicone Elastomer Blend (all from Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel S11400 (Stearinerie Dubois FiIs), HVM 4852 Emulsion (CromptonCorporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil,Lubrasil DS (both from Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E,Nonychosine V (both from Exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish(both from Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (CosmeticIngredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (allfrom Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all from GESilicones), Taylor T-SiI CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all from TaylorChemical Company), TH V 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429(Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-BelsilCM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all fromWacker-Chemie GmbH).

Dimethicones form the second group of the silicones that can be usedaccording to the invention. They can be linear, branched, cyclic, orcyclic and branched.

Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form a further group of suitable silicones.Suitable Dimethicone copolyols are commercially available and marketed,for example, by Dow Corning under the trade name Dow Corning® 5330Fluid.

Naturally, the Dimethiconols, Dimethicones and/or Dimethicone copolymerscan already be present as an emulsion. Corresponding emulsions of theDimethiconols, Dimethicones and/or Dimethicone copolymers can beproduced both after the production of the corresponding Dimethiconols,Dimethicones and/or Dimethicone copolymers from these and the usualemulsification processes known to one skilled in the art. Cationic,anionic, non-ionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can beused as auxiliaries and adjuvants for production of the correspondingemulsions. Naturally, the emulsions of Dimethiconols, Dimethiconesand/or Dimethicone copolymers can also be produced directly by emulsionpolymerization process. These types of processes are also well known tothe person skilled in the art.

When the Dimethiconols, Dimethicones and/or Dimethicone copolymers areused as an emulsion, then the droplet size of the emulsified particlesranges from 0.01 to 10,000 μm, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, particularlypreferably 0.01 to 20 μm and quite particularly preferably 0.01 to 10μm. Particle size is determined here according to the light scatteringmethod.

If branched Dimethiconols, Dimethicones and/or Dimethicone copolymersare used, then the branching is greater than a fortuitous branching thataccidentally occurs from impurities in the respective monomers.Accordingly, in the context of the present invention, the degree ofbranching is understood to be greater than 0.01% for branchedDimethiconols, Dimethicones and/or Dimethicone copolymers. The degree ofbranching is preferably greater than 0.01% and quite particularlypreferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined fromthe ratio of unbranched monomers to branched monomers (i.e., the amountof tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes). According to the invention, bothlow-branched and highly branched Dimethiconols, Dimethicones and/orDimethicone copolymers can be quite particularly preferred.

Further suitable silicones are amino-functional silicones, especiallysilicones compiled under the INCI name Amodimethicone. Consequently, itis inventively preferred when the agents additionally have at least oneamino-functional silicone. These are silicones having at least one,optionally substituted, amino group. These silicones are designated asAmodimethicones according to INCI nomenclature and are available, forexample, in the form of an emulsion as the commercial product DowCorning® 939 or as the commercial product Dow Corning® 949 in a mixturewith a cationic and a non-ionic surfactant.

Preferably, those amino functional silicones are used which have anamine number of 0.25 meq/g or greater, preferably 0.3 meq/g or greater,and particularly preferably 0.4 meq/g or greater. The amine number isthe milli-equivalents of amine per gram of amino functional silicone. Itcan be measured by titration and can also be reported with the unit mgKOH/g.

The agents preferably contain the silicones in amounts of 0.01 wt. % to15 wt. %, particularly preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 2 wt. %, basedon total weight of the agent.

The composition can include, for example, at least one proteinhydrolysate and/or one of its derivatives as a care substance of anothercompound class.

Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid-, base- orenzyme-catalyzed degradation of proteins (albumins). According to theinvention, the term “protein hydrolysates” refers to total hydrolysatesas well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well asmixtures of different amino acids. The molecular weight of the proteinhydrolyzates utilizable according to the invention ranges from 75, themolecular weight of glycine, to 200,000, preferably the molecular weightis 75 to 50,000 and quite particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 Dalton.

According to the invention, the added protein hydrolysates can be ofvegetal as well as animal or marine or synthetic origin.

Animal protein hydrolyzates are, for example, elastin, collagen,keratin, silk protein, and milk albumin protein hydrolyzates, which canalso be present in the form of their salts. Such products are marketed,for example, under the trade names Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois®(Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol®(Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex), Sericin(Pentapharm) and Kerasol® (Croda).

The agents contain protein hydrolyzates, for example, in concentrationsof 0.01 wt. % to 20 wt. %, preferably 0.05 wt. % up to 15 wt. % andquite particularly preferably in amounts of 0.05 wt. % up to 5 wt. %,based on total weight of the end-use preparation.

The agent can further contain at least one vitamin, one provitamin, onevitamin precursor and/or one of their derivatives as the care substance.

According to the invention, such vitamins, provitamins and vitaminprecursors are preferred that are normally classified in the groups A,B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances designated as vitamin A includes retinol(vitamin A1) as well as 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). β-Carotene isthe provitamin of retinol. Examples of suitable vitamin A componentsaccording to the invention are vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin Aaldehyde and vitamin A alcohol as well as its esters such as thepalmitate and acetate. The agents preferably comprise the vitamin Acomponents in amounts of 0.05 to 1 wt. %, based on the total applicationpreparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include inter alia vitaminB1 (thiamine), vitamin B2 (riboflavin), vitamin B3 (nicotinic acidand/or nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide)), vitamin B5 (pantothenicacid, panthenol and pantolactone), vitamin B6 (pyridoxine as well aspyridoxamine and pyridoxal), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin E(tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol), vitamin F (linoleic acid and/orlinolenic acid), vitamin H.

The agents preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitaminprecursors from groups A, B, C, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone,pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin areespecially preferred.

D-panthenol is quite particularly preferably employed as a caresubstance, optionally in combination with at least one of theabovementioned silicone derivatives.

Like the addition of glycerin and/or propylene glycol, the addition ofpanthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed when theagent is used. Thus, if a particularly flexible hold is desired, thenthe agents can contain panthenol instead of or in addition to glycerinand/or propylene glycol. In a preferred embodiment, the agents containpanthenol, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10 wt. %, particularlypreferably 0.1 to 5 wt. %, based on total weight of the agent.

Agents according to the invention can further contain at least one plantextract as a care substance.

Usually, these extracts are manufactured by extraction of the wholeplant. In individual cases, however, it can also be preferred to producethe extracts solely from blossoms and/or leaves of the plant.

According to the invention, extracts mainly from green tea, oak bark,stinging nettle, hamamelis, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, fieldhorsetail, hawthorn, linden flowers, almonds, aloe vera, spruce needles,horse chestnut, sandal wood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime,wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, malva,lady's smock, common yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, rest-harrow, coltsfoot,marshmallow (althea), meristem, ginseng and ginger are preferred.

In addition, it can be preferred to use mixtures of a plurality,particularly two different plant extracts in agents according to theinvention.

Mono- or oligosaccharides can also be used as care substance in agentsaccording to the invention.

Monosaccharides as well as oligosaccharides, such as raw sugar, lactoseand raffinose, can be used. According to the invention, use ofmonosaccharides is preferred. Once again, the monosaccharides preferablyinclude those compounds having 5 or 6 carbon atoms.

Suitable pentoses and hexoses are, for example, ribose, arabinose,xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose,galactose, talose, fucose and fructose.

Arabinose, glucose, galactose and fructose are the preferably usedcarbohydrates; glucose is quite particularly preferably incorporated,and is suitable both in the D(+) or L(−) configuration or as theracemate.

In addition, derivatives of these pentoses and hexoses can also beincorporated according to the invention, such as the corresponding onicand uronic acids (sugar acids), sugar alcohols, and glycosides.

Preferred sugar acids are the gluconic acid, the glucuronic acid, thesugar acids, the mannosugar acids and the mucic acids. Preferred sugaralcohols are sorbitol, mannitol and dulcitol.

Preferred glycosides are the methyl glucosides.

As the incorporated mono- and oligosaccharides are usually obtained fromnatural raw materials such as starch, they generally possessconfigurations that correspond to these raw materials (e.g., D-glucose,D-fructose and D-galactose).

The inventive agents preferably contain mono- or oligosaccharides in anamount of 0.1 to 8 wt. %, particularly preferably 1 to 5 wt. %, based ontotal end-use preparation.

The agent can further comprise at least one lipid as a care substance.

According to the invention, suitable lipids are phospholipids, forexample, soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, as well as substancesknown under the INCI names Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium ChloridePhosphate, Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate andStearamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate. These arecommercialized, for example, by the Mona Company under the trade namesPhospholipid EFA®, Phospholipid PTC® and Phospholipid SV®. The agentspreferably include the lipids in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt. %,particularly 0.1 to 5 wt. %, based on total end-use preparation.

Oil bodies are also suitable as a care substance.

Natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example:

-   -   vegetal oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive        oil, soya oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil,        wheat germ oil, peach stone oil and the liquid parts of coconut        oil. However, other triglyceride oils such as the liquid        fractions of beef tallow are also suitable as well as synthetic        triglyceride oils,    -   liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic        hydrocarbons, as well as di-n-alkyl ethers containing a total of        12 to 36 carbon atoms, particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms such        as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether,        di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether,        n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl        n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert.butyl        ether, diisopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert.butyl        n-octyl ether, isopentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl        n-octyl ether. The commercial products of the compounds        1,3-di-(2-ethylhexyl)cyclohexane (Cetiol® S) and di-n-octyl        ether (Cetiol® OE) can be preferred.    -   Ester oils. Ester oils refer to the esters of C₆-C₃₀ fatty acids        with C₂-C₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of fatty acids with        alcohols containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.        According to the invention, isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM),        isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl        palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester        (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerin tricaprylate, cocofatty        alcohol caprinate/-caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate,        oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit®        IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol®        A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol®        MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), oleic acid decyl ester        (Cetiol® V) are particularly preferred.    -   dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate,        di-(2-ethylhexyl)adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl)succinate and        di-isotridecyl acetate as well as diol esters such as ethylene        glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene        glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate,        propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butane diol di-isostearate,        neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,    -   symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbon dioxide        with fatty alcohols, such as described in DE-OS197 56 454,        glycerin carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC),    -   trifatty acid esters of saturated and/or unsaturated linear        and/or branched fatty acids with glycerin,    -   fatty acid partial glycerides, under which are understood        monoglycerides, diglycerides and their industrial mixtures. When        using industrial products, minor amounts of triglycerides may        still be contained as a result of the production process. The        partial glycerides preferably comply with the Formula (D4-I),

-   -   wherein R¹, R² and R³ are, independently of each other, hydrogen        or a linear or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl group        with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms,        with the proviso that at least one of these groups is an acyl        group and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum of        (m+n+q) is 0 or a number from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25.        Preferably, R¹ is an acyl group and R² and R³ are hydrogen and        the sum of (m+n+q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and/or        diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid,        2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic        acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic        acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic        acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid,        arachidonic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid as        well as their industrial mixtures. Oleic acid monoglycerides are        preferably employed.

The added amount of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in agentsaccording to the invention is usually 0.1 to 30 wt. %, based on totalend-use preparation, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt. % and particularly 0.1 to15 wt. %.

Although each of the cited care substances alone already provides asatisfactory result, in the context of the present invention allembodiments are also included, wherein the agent has a plurality ofconditioners even from different groups.

By addition of a UV filter, both the agent itself as well as the treatedfibers can be protected against damage from UV radiation. Consequently,at least one UV filter is preferably added to the agent. Suitable UVfilters are generally not limited with respect to their structure andphysical properties. Indeed, all UV filters that can be used in thecosmetic field having an absorption maximum in the UVA (315-400 nm), UVB(280-315 nm) or UVC (<280 nm) regions are suitable. UV filters having anabsorption maximum in the UVB region, especially in the range from about280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

Preferred UV-filters are chosen from substituted benzophenones,p-aminobenzoates, diphenylacrylates, cinnamates, salicylates,benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoates.

Exemplary inventively usable UV-filters are 4-amino-benzoic acid,N,N,N-trimethyl-4-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl)aniline methyl sulfate,3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (Homosalate),2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (Benzophenone-3; Uvinul® M 40, Uvasorb®MET, Neo Heliopan® BB, Eusolex® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonicacid and their potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts(phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; Parsol® HS; Neo Heliopan® Hydro),3,3′-(1,4-phenylenedimethylene)-bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-yl-methanesulfonicacid) and their salts,1-(4-tert.-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione(butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane; Parsol® 1789, Eusolex® 9020),α-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)-toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof,ethoxylated ethyl 4-aminobenzoate (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul® P 25),2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate (Octyl Dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb® DMO,Escalol® 507, Eusolex® 6007), 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (Octyl Salicylate;Escalol® 587, Neo Heliopan® OS, Uvinul® 018), isopentyl4-methoxycinnamate (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan® E 1000),2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol® MCX,Escalol® 557, Neo Heliopan® AV),2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and sodium saltsthereof, (benzophenone-4; Uvinul® MS 40; Uvasorb® S 5),3-(4′-methylbenzylidene)-D,L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor;Parsol® 5000, Eusolex® 6300), 3-benzylidene-camphor (3-Benzylidenecamphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate,2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethylhexyl-1′-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine,3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N-{(2 and4)-[2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl]benzyl}-acrylamide,2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-1; Uvasorb® 20 H, Uvinul® 400),2-ethylhexyl ester of 1,1′-diphenylacrylonitrilic acid (Octocrylene;Eusolex® OCR, Neo Heliopan® Type 303, Uvinul® N 539 SG), menthylo-aminobenzoate (menthyl anthranilate; Neo Heliopan® MA),2,2′,4,4′-tetrahydroxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-2, Uvinul® D-50),2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), sodium2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate and 2′-ethylhexyl2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate. 4-Amino-benzoic acid,N,N,N-trimethyl-4-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl)aniline methyl sulfate,3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl salicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone,2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and the potassium, sodium andtriethanolamine salts thereof,3,3′-(1,4-phenylenedimethylene)-bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof,1-(4-tert.-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione,α-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)-toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof,ethoxylated ethyl 4-aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate,2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl4-methoxycinnamate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid andits sodium salt, 3-(4′-methylbenzylidene)-D,L-camphor,3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate,2,4,6-tri-anilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethylhexyl-1′-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine,3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N-{(2 and4)-[2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl]benzyl}acrylamide are preferred. Accordingto the invention, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone,2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium andtriethanolamine salts,1-(4-tert.-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione,4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and3-(4′-methylbenzylidene)-D,L-camphor are quite particularly preferred.

The agent usually contains UV filters in amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt. %,based on total end-use preparation. Quantities of 0.1-2.5 wt. % arepreferred.

In a particular embodiment, the agent further includes one or moresubstantive dyes. Application of the agent then enables the treatedkeratinic fiber not only to be temporarily styled but also to be dyed atthe same time. This can be particularly desirable when only a temporarydyeing is desired, for example with flamboyant fashion colors that canbe subsequently removed from the keratinic fibers by simply washing themout.

Substantive dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroamino phenols,azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Preferred substantive dyestuffsare the compounds known under the international designations or tradenames HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12,Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange1, Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HCRed 11, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red57:1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7,Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, AcidViolet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 knowncompounds as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol,1,4-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-nitrobenzene,3-nitro-4(β-hydroxyethyl)aminophenol,2-(2′-hydroxyethyl)amino-4-6-dinitrophenol,1-(2′-hydroxyethyl)amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene,1-amino-4-(2′-hydroxyethyl)-amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene,4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2′-ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzene,4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2′-carboxylic acid,6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone,picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol,4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene. Cationic substantivedyes are preferably employed. Particular preference is given here to

-   (a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes, such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue    26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,-   (b) aromatic systems substituted by a quaternary nitrogen group,    such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16    and Basic Brown 17, and-   (c) substantive dyes having a heterocycle that has at least one    quaternary nitrogen atom, as specified, for example, in EP-A2-998    908 in claims 6 to 11.

The dyes which are also known under the names Basic Yellow 87, BasicOrange 31 and Basic Red 51 are quite particularly preferred cationicsubstantive dyes of group (c). The cationic substantive dyes that arecommercialized under the trade name Arianor® are likewise quiteparticularly preferred cationic substantive dyes according to theinvention.

Inventive agents according to this embodiment contain substantive dyespreferably in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt. %, based on total agent.

Preferably, the agents are exempt from oxidation dye precursors.Oxidation dye precursors are divided into developer components andcoupler components. Under the influence of oxidizing agents or fromatmospheric oxygen, the developer components form the actual colorantsamong each other or by coupling with one or more coupler components.

Formulation of the agents can be in all forms typical for stylingagents, for example, in the form of solutions that can be applied ashair water or pump or aerosol spray onto the hair, in the form ofcreams, emulsions, waxes, gels or also surfactant-containing foamingsolutions or other preparations suitable for application on the hair.

Hair creams and hair gels generally include structurants and/orthickening polymers which give the desired consistency to the products.Structurants and/or thickening polymers are typically added in amountsof 0.1 to 10 wt. %, based on total product. Quantities of 0.5 to 5 wt.%, particularly 0.5 to 3 wt. %, are preferred.

The agents are preferably packed as a pump spray, aerosol spray, pumpfoam or aerosol foam.

For this, the agents are packed in a dispensing device, illustrated byeither a pressurized gas container additionally containing a propellant(“aerosol container”), or by a non-aerosol container.

Pressurized gas containers, by which a product is dispersed through avalve by the internal gas pressure in the container, are defined as“aerosol containers”. The opposite of the aerosol definition, acontainer under normal pressure, is defined as a “non-aerosolcontainer”, from which a product is dispersed by means of the mechanicalactuation of a pump system.

Agents according to the invention are preferably packed as an aerosolhair foam or aerosol hair spray. Consequently, the agent additionallyhas at least one propellant.

Suitable exemplary propellants are chosen from N₂O, dimethyl ether, CO₂,air, alkanes containing 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane,iso-butane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, and their mixtures. Dimethylether, propane, n-butane, iso-butane and their mixtures are preferred.

According to a preferred embodiment, the cited alkanes, mixtures of thecited alkanes or mixtures of the cited alkanes with dimethyl ether arepreferred as the sole propellant. However, the invention also includesjoint utilization with propellants of the fluorochlorohydrocarbon type,especially fluorinated hydrocarbons.

With respect to the weight ratio of propellant to the usual ingredientsof the preparation, the size of the aerosol droplets or the foam bubblesand the relevant size distribution can be adjusted for a given spraydevice.

The amount of added propellant varies as a function of the actualcomposition of the agent, packaging used and the desired product type,for example, hair spray or hair foam. When a conventional spray deviceis used, aerosol foam products preferably contain propellant in amountsof 1 to 35 wt. %, based on total product. Quantities of 2 to 30 wt. %,especially 3 to 15 wt. %, are particularly preferred. Aerosol spraysgenerally contain greater amounts of propellant. Here, the propellant ispreferably added in amounts of 30 to 98 wt. %, based on total product.Quantities of 40 to 95 wt. %, especially 50 to 95 wt. %, areparticularly preferred.

The aerosol products can be manufactured according to conventionaltechniques. Generally, all ingredients of the agent except thepropellant are charged into a suitable pressure-resistant container.This is then sealed with a valve. The desired quantity of propellant isthen filled by conventional techniques.

Agents in the form of gels are foamed in a two-chamber aerosolcontainer, preferably with isopentane as the propellant, which added tothe agent and packed in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosolcontainer. At least one additional propellant different from isopentaneis packed in the second chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container andgenerates a higher pressure than the isopentane. Propellants of thesecond chamber are preferably chosen from N₂O, dimethyl ether, CO₂, air,alkanes containing 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane,iso-butane) as well as mixtures thereof.

Aerosol hair foams or aerosol hair sprays containing the above describedagent according to the invention and at least one propellant are apreferred embodiment of the agent.

Preferred agents according to the invention and propellants of theaerosol hair foam or aerosol hair spray, as well as relevant amounts ofpropellant correspond to those already mentioned above.

A second subject matter of the invention is the use of the agent fortemporary shaping of hair and/or for hair care.

The agents and products containing these agents, especially aerosol hairfoams or aerosol hair sprays, give the treated hair a very strong,long-lasting hold to the hairstyle, while the hair remains flexible. Ifthe agent is made up as a hair foam, then a stable, micro-porous andcreamy foam is formed that can be uniformly dispersed on the hairwithout dripping.

A third subject matter of the invention is a method for treatingkeratin-containing fibers, especially human hair, wherein an agentaccording to the first subject matter is foamed to a foam by use of adispensing device, and the resulting foam is applied onto thekeratin-containing fibers.

It is inventively preferred to shape the keratin-containing fibers andthis shape is fixed by the agent of the first subject matter of theinvention.

The abovementioned dispensing devices (see above) are inventivelypreferred.

A fourth subject matter of the invention is a method for treatingkeratin-containing fibers, especially human hair, wherein an agentaccording to the first subject matter is applied as a spray onto thekeratin-containing fibers by a dispensing device.

It is inventively preferred here that the keratin-containing fibers areshaped and this shape is fixed by the agent of the first subject matterof the invention.

The abovementioned dispensing devices (see above) are inventivelypreferred.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter ofthe present invention in more detail, without limiting it in any way.

EXAMPLES

Unless otherwise stated, the quantities are understood to be in weightpercent.

The following formulations were prepared by blending the raw materials:

Raw materials A B C D E Luviquat ® Supreme 9.0 — 5.0 3.0 — Luviquat ® FC370 — 4.0 — 5.0 7.0 Aquastyle ® 300 3   2.0 1.0 4.0 3.5 Styleze ® W-10 —3.0 — — — Styleze ® W-20 — — 2.0 — — PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.10.2 0.2 0.2 0.1 Water ad 100 Raw materials F G H I J K Aquastyle ® 3004.0 2.0 5.0 2.0 4.0 4.0 Celquat ® L-200 1.0 1.0 0.5 — — 1.0 Luviquat ®Supreme — — — — 4.0 — Luviquat ® FC 370 — — 4.0 — — — Styleze ® W-10 6.0- 2.0 — 4.0 — — Styleze ® W-20 — — — — — 4.0 Gafquat ® 755 N PW — —— 6.0 3.0 — Styleze ® CC 10 — 2.0 — — — — Ethanol 15.0  — — — — 15.0 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor 0.1 0.1  0.15 0.2 0.2 0.1 oil Water ad 100

Formulations A to K were each filled into an aerosol container thatmeets the following technical parameter: aluminium reservoir containerwith valve product 522983 PV 10697 from the Precision Company (DeutschePräzisions-Ventil GmbH).

The aerosol container was filled with a mixture of the propellant gasespropane/butane (47 wt. % propane, 50 wt. % butane, 3 wt. % isobutene),such that the weight ratio of the formulation to the propellant gas was92 to 8.

All formulations when applied onto the hair produced an outstandinglyflexible hold to the hairstyle. The hair received a very good care. Whenthe formulations were deployed as aerosol foam, voluminous foam wasobtained that broke down when applied on the hair.

Index of the Raw Materials:

-   Aquastyle® 300 copolymer of N-vinyl pyrrolidone/N-vinyl    caprolactam/N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamide and    3-(methacryloylamino)propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (active    substance 30 wt. % in water/ethanol, INCI name: (Polyquaternium-69)    (ISP)-   Celquat® L 200 quaternized cellulose derivative (INCI name:    Polyquaternium-4) (National Starch)-   Gafquat® 755 N PW dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinyl pyrrolidone    copolymer, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (ca. 19% solids in    water; INCI name: Polyquaternium-11) (ISP)-   Luviquat® FC 370 3-methyl-1-vinylimidazolium chloride-vinyl    pyrrolidone copolymer (30:70) (38-42% solids in water; INCI name:    Polyquaternium-16) (BASF)-   Luviquat® Supreme vinyl    pyrrolidone-methacrylamide-vinylimidazole-vinylimidazolium    methosulfate copolymer (55:29:10:6) (19-21% solids in water; INCI    name: Polyquaternium-68) (BASF)-   Styleze® W-10 copolymer of N-vinyl pyrrolidone,    N,N-dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and    N,N-dimethyl-N-dodecylammoniopropylmethacrylamide chloride (ca. 9 to    11% active substance, INCI name: Polyquaternium-55) (ISP)-   Styleze® W-20 copolymer of N-vinyl pyrrolidone,    N,N-dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and    N,N-dimethyl-N-dodecylammoniopropylmethacrylamide chloride (ca. 19    to 21% active substance, INCI name: Polyquaternium-55) (ISP)-   Styleze® CC 10 copolymer of N-vinyl pyrrolidone and    N,N-dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide (ca. 9 to 11% active    substance, INCI name: VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer) (ISP)

We claim:
 1. An agent for treating keratin-containing fibers comprising,in a cosmetically acceptable carrier: (a) at least one amphiphilic,cationic polymer having at least one structural unit of Formula (I), atleast one structural unit of Formula (II), at least one structural unitof Formula (III) and at least one structural unit of Formula (IV),

wherein R¹ and R⁴ are, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom ora methyl group, X¹ and X² are, independently of one another, an oxygenatom or an NH group, A¹ and A² are, independently of one another, anethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group, R², R³, R⁵and R⁶ are, independently of one another, a (C₁ to C₄) alkyl group, andR⁷ is a (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl group, and (b) at least one additionalfilm-forming cationic and/or setting cationic polymer having at leastone structural unit of Formula (I), at least one structural unit ofFormula (V) and at least one structural unit of Formula (VI)

wherein R¹ and R⁴ are, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom ora methyl group, A¹ and A² are, independently of one another, anethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group, R², R³, R⁵and R⁶ are independently of one another, a (C₁ to C₄) alkyl group, andR⁷ is a (C₈ to C₃₀) alkyl group.
 2. The agent according to claim 1wherein component (b) further comprises at least a second film-formingcationic and/or setting cationic polymer.
 3. The agent according toclaim 1 wherein in Formula (III) and Formula (IV), R¹ and R⁴ are each amethyl group.
 4. The agent according to claim 1 wherein in Formula (III)and Formula (IV), A¹ and A² are, independently of one another,ethane-1,2-diyl or propane-1,3-diyl.
 5. The agent according to claim 1wherein in Formula (III) and Formula (IV), R², R³, R⁵ and R⁶ are,independently of one another, methyl or ethyl.
 6. The agent according toclaim 1 wherein in Formula (IV) R⁷ is a (C₁₀ to C₂₄) alkyl group.
 7. Theagent according to claim 6 wherein in Formula (IV) R⁷ is decyl(caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl),octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).
 8. Theagent according to claim 1 wherein the amphiphilic, cationic polymer (a)comprises at least one structural unit of Formula (I), at least onestructural unit of Formula (II), at least one structural unit of Formula(III-8) and at least one structural unit of Formula (IV-8)

wherein R⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl),tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl(arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).
 9. The agent according to claim 1wherein the amphiphilic, cationic polymer(s) are present in an amount of0.1 wt. % to 20.0 wt. %, based on total weight of the agent.
 10. Theagent according to claim 1 wherein the film-forming cationic and/orsetting cationic polymers (b) are present in an amount of 0.1 wt. % to20.0 wt. %, based on total weight of the agent.
 11. The agent accordingto claim 1 further comprising at least one additional film-formingcationic and/or setting cationic polymer (b) having at least onestructural element of Formula (M1)

wherein R″ is a (C₁ to C₄) alkyl group, and additionally having anothercationic and/or non-ionic structural element.
 12. The agent according toclaim 1 wherein the additional film-forming cationic and/or settingcationic polymers (b) further comprises at least one cationic,quaternized cellulose derivative.
 13. The agent according to claim 1wherein component (b) further comprises: (bI) at least one cationic,quaternized cellulose derivative, and (bII) polymers having at least onestructural element of Formula (M1)

wherein R″ is a (C₁ to C₄) alkyl group, and additionally has anothercationic and/or non-ionic structural element.
 14. The agent according toclaim 1 wherein component (b) further comprises: (bI) at least onecationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer having at leastone structural element of Formula (M1)

wherein R″ is a (C₁ to C₄) alkyl group, and additionally has anothercationic and/or non-ionic structural element.
 15. An aerosol foam oraerosol spray comprising the agent according to claim 1.